Instrumental Analysis of the Human Hair Damaged by Bleaching Treatments - Focused on ATR FT-IRM -
0
조회
0
다운로드
2
인용
0
참고문헌
키워드
초록
The physico-chemical characteristics by bleaching treatments were assessed by several instrumental analyses such as surface morphology, chemical structural change, color change as well as tensile strength. The change of morphological characteristic was observed through scanning electron microscope(SEM). The observation of the fine structure on hair surface by SEM showed the bleached hair had much damaged to hair cuticle, and some of cuticle surface were worn away. To investigate the chemical structural changes in hair keratin, the cross-sections of hair samples were directly analysed using Fourier transform infrared microspectroscopy(FT-IRM). The results showed the cysteic acid S=O band intensity was distinctively increased by performing the bleaching treatment. The cleavage of cystine was appeared to proceed primarily through the sulfur-sulfur (-S-S-) fission whereby cysteic acid was formed as a principal oxidation products. The distribution of amide I band in hair keratin was determined by attenuated total reflectance(ATR) FT-IR mapping image. The results showed that the outer side of hair cortex was more damaged than the inner side of the hair cortex. Also, during chemical bleaching of the hair with alkaline peroxide, the hair was turned to reddish yellow due to the oxidative degradation of eumelanin. This means the eumelanin is more unstable than pheomelanin in chemical oxidation. With bleaching, the tensile strength was also reduced as a results of the chemical oxidation.
Abstract
The physico-chemical characteristics by bleaching treatments were assessed by several instrumental analyses such as surface morphology, chemical structural change, color change as well as tensile strength. The change of morphological characteristic was observed through scanning electron microscope(SEM). The observation of the fine structure on hair surface by SEM showed the bleached hair had much damaged to hair cuticle, and some of cuticle surface were worn away. To investigate the chemical structural changes in hair keratin, the cross-sections of hair samples were directly analysed using Fourier transform infrared microspectroscopy(FT-IRM). The results showed the cysteic acid S=O band intensity was distinctively increased by performing the bleaching treatment. The cleavage of cystine was appeared to proceed primarily through the sulfur-sulfur (-S-S-) fission whereby cysteic acid was formed as a principal oxidation products. The distribution of amide I band in hair keratin was determined by attenuated total reflectance(ATR) FT-IR mapping image. The results showed that the outer side of hair cortex was more damaged than the inner side of the hair cortex. Also, during chemical bleaching of the hair with alkaline peroxide, the hair was turned to reddish yellow due to the oxidative degradation of eumelanin. This means the eumelanin is more unstable than pheomelanin in chemical oxidation. With bleaching, the tensile strength was also reduced as a results of the chemical oxidation.
참고문헌 (14)
- Rona B., "Beauty", pp.207~225 (2001), Warkman Publishing
- Powitt, A.H., "Hair Structure and Chemistry Simplified", pp.251~265 (1972), Miilady Publishing Corp.
- Robbins C.R., "Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair", pp.54~85 (1994), Springer Verlag
- Robinson V.N., "A study of damaged hair", Journal of Society of Cosmetic Chemist, 27(4), pp.155~162 (1976)
- Horiuchi T., "Nature of damaged hair", Cosmetics & Toiletries, 93(11), pp.65~70 (1978)
- Dawber R.P.R., "Hair dynamics", Soap Perfume Cosmetics, 53(6), pp.316~322 (1980)
- Byler D.M., "Examination of secondary structure of proteins by FT-IR spectra", Bioploymer, 25, pp.469~87 (1986)
- Panayiotou H., "Matching and discrimination of single human-scalp hairs by FT-IR microspectroscopy and chemometrics", Analytica Chimica Acta, 392(3), pp.223~229 (1999)
- Susi H., "Protein structure by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy:Second derivative spectra", Biochem.Biophys.Res.Commum, 115, pp.391~398 (1983)
- Bantignies J.L., "Organic reagent interaction with hair spatially characterized by infrared microspectroscopy using synchrotron radiation", International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 20, pp.381~388 (1998)
- Savige W.E., "The Chemistry of Organic Sulfur Compounds", 2, pp.36~64 (1990), Elsevier
- Burkinshaw S.M., "Hair analysis by derivative FT-IR spectroscopy using IR microscope", the 16th IFSCC International Congress, pp.147~158 (1990), New York
- Prota G., "Melanins and Melanogenesis", pp.55~95 (1992), Academic Press
- Dennis L., "Rheological Properties of Cosmetics and Toiletries", pp.275~312 (1993), Rheox Inc.