고감성 니트디자인을 위한 무봉제 니트 조직패턴의 성능과 이미지간의 연구 (1) - 암홀 접속부(마치)의 역학적 특성을 중심으로 -

Abstract

To achieve the aim of this study, 9 different types of samples were made to examine mechanical property according to structured pattern and type of Machi of pullover armhole of WholeGarment(seamless knitwear). With respect to samples, from which comparisons are made and anaylzed among basic characteristics of material, tensile strength & elongation and residual elongation due to repeated extension of armhole connecting part, the following conclusions could be obtained. It's revealed that the tensile strength of Machi part as being armhole connecting part of samples is more affected by Machi type than pattern structure. Of Machi types, it showed stronger tensile strength in the order of Normal(Normal Machi)< Machi_B(unilateral Machi)<Machi_SB (both-side Machi), accordingly Machi_SB proved to be the strongest pattern where sleeve part and body part are separately bind off. However, when compared, Machi part was observed to be relatively weaker than original fabric in terms of tensile strength. It seems due to overlap of binding or change in direction caused by Machi part's pattern. Elongation as per pattern structure showed similar result as that of tensile strength. Accordingly, it was Machi_SB in all three pattern structures that has the highest elongation. Upon making a comparison of residual elongation ratio of type of Machi according to sample's repeated extension, the residual elongation ratio tended to be similar in overall pattern structures. Besides by examining residual elongation ratio from 2-3 times repeated extension tests, it's concluded that the characterisitc of fiber being used has more influence than pattern structure on residual elongation ratio. Residual elongation in comparison by pattern structure showed increase in the order, Plain< Rib<Purl, however the gap was not significant except for Purl.