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3차원을 이용한 중년 비만 여성용 스커트 설계방법론 연구

Development of Skirt Pattern for the Middle Aged Women of Obese Using the 3-Dimension Technology

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주제분류생활과학

초록

The purpose of this paper is to find how to do the width of skirt and the girth of the waist in the adequate pattern making for the obese women's skirt. Appearance test of the five experimental skirts was evaluated by the four experts in clothing construction. At the same time, 3D clothing air volume was observed for the five types of experimental skirt with different size specifications. The results from the appearance test were as follows; when the width of skirt pattern is set for(the shell girth/2), it was suggested w/4+1(front), w/4(back) for girth of the waist. On one hand, in case of(the shell girth of front)/2 +(the shell girth of back)/2, it was suggested(the waist girth of front)/2 and(waist girth of back)/2 for obese women's skirt with the best appearance. As results, it was found that the width of skirt pattern for the obese women should be the greatest shell girth instead of hip girth. In the case of the hip girth, the amount of ease on hip was suggested 6cm. It was found that pattern with the wrinkle of ease was full of the gaps between body and skirt in 3D clothing air volume. In spreading out to 2D flat pattern from 3D scan data, when the width of skirt pattern was set for(the shell girth of front)/2+(the shell girth of back)/2, it was suggested(the waist girth of front/2)+(the waist girth of back/2) than the shell girth/2 in girth of the waist for the best appearance. And the conversion of 3D scan data into 2D flat pattern in curve shape of crosswise had to spread out of the plane in straight line. The obese women's clothing should be manufactured with systematical consideration of the diversity and scarcity of the obese women's body shape.

Abstract

The purpose of this paper is to find how to do the width of skirt and the girth of the waist in the adequate pattern making for the obese women's skirt. Appearance test of the five experimental skirts was evaluated by the four experts in clothing construction. At the same time, 3D clothing air volume was observed for the five types of experimental skirt with different size specifications. The results from the appearance test were as follows; when the width of skirt pattern is set for(the shell girth/2), it was suggested w/4+1(front), w/4(back) for girth of the waist. On one hand, in case of(the shell girth of front)/2 +(the shell girth of back)/2, it was suggested(the waist girth of front)/2 and(waist girth of back)/2 for obese women's skirt with the best appearance. As results, it was found that the width of skirt pattern for the obese women should be the greatest shell girth instead of hip girth. In the case of the hip girth, the amount of ease on hip was suggested 6cm. It was found that pattern with the wrinkle of ease was full of the gaps between body and skirt in 3D clothing air volume. In spreading out to 2D flat pattern from 3D scan data, when the width of skirt pattern was set for(the shell girth of front)/2+(the shell girth of back)/2, it was suggested(the waist girth of front/2)+(the waist girth of back/2) than the shell girth/2 in girth of the waist for the best appearance. And the conversion of 3D scan data into 2D flat pattern in curve shape of crosswise had to spread out of the plane in straight line. The obese women's clothing should be manufactured with systematical consideration of the diversity and scarcity of the obese women's body shape.

참고문헌 (14)

  1. 권수애, "비만 여성을 위한 재킷 패턴 보정법", 한국생활환경학회지, 9(2) (2002)
  2. 김을란, "체형에 따른 Basic Pattern 연구", 석사, pp.1996
  3. 김혜경, "피복인간공학 실험설계방법론" (2001), 교문사
  4. 류정아, "의복디자인의 선이 체형에 미치는 착시효과", 한국의류학회지, 17(3) (1993)
  5. 박정순, "비만 체형을 위한 Basic Skirt 원형 연구", 부산대학교 가정대학 연구보고, 12 (1986)
  6. 손부현, "중년 여성 의복용 치수조합 및 그레이딩 편차설정에 관한 연구", 한국생활과학회지, 14(1), pp.107~117 (2005), 한국생활과학회
  7. 손부현, "중년기 비만여성을 위한 기존 재킷의 패턴분석", 한국생활과학회지, 14(3), pp.475~483 (2005), 한국생활과학회
  8. 오선희, "서양의복구성" (2006), 예학사
  9. 유인숙, "중년 여성의 Skirt에 관한 연구: 40~55세를 중심으로", 석사, pp.1988
  10. 이소영, "스트레이트 스커트의 여유분에 관한 연구", 석사, pp.1995
  11. 정혜락, "중년 여성의 상반신 체형분석에 따른 기본 원형에 관한 연구", 박사, pp.1995
  12. Armstrong, Helen Joseph, "Patternmaking for Fashion Design" (2000), Harper Collins
  13. DeLong, Marilyn R., "Aesthetics:It begins with the body", The 17th International Costume Association Congress Special Lecture I. (1998)
  14. Loker, Suzanne, "Size-specific analysis of body scan data to improve apparel fit", Journal of Textile and Apparel Technology and Management, 4(3) (2005)

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