적색 염직물의 색소 추출 방법 및 분석연구
A Study on Extraction and Analysis of Red Dyed Fabric
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초록
전승되었거나 출토된 직물은 자외 ․ 가시광선, 산소, 미생물 등에 의해 열화 되고 변 ․ 퇴색되어 본래 색을 추정하기 어렵다. 색의 분리 ․ 분석에서 LC-MS 분석은 매우 효과적이나 염료 정성분석에 있어서 직물로부터 색소를 추출하는 과정이 특히 중요하다. 홍화와 락충으로 염색된 직물로부터 염화수소, 피리딘, 옥살산을 주 용매로 한 세 가지 추출방법 중 옥살산을 기반으로 한 방법이 적색소 추출에 가장 효과적이었다. 한편 열화에 따른 색소의 화학적 특성 분석을 위해 홍화와 락충으로 각각 염색한 시편을 자외선A로 168시간 열화 시킨 후 LC-MS로 분석하였다. 그 결과 홍화 색소는 TR 13 min에서 carthamin이, 락 색소는 TR 10 min에서 laccaic acid A가 검출되었다. 또한 자외선 열화 된 홍화 염직물의 MS분석 결과 주 색소인 carthamin은 검출되지 않았지만, 분자량 m/z 931의 물질을 통하여 홍화 염직물임을 확인할 수 있었다. 본 연구를 통하여 적색 염직물로부터 적색염료 추출을 위한 최적의 방법을 확인할 수 있었으며 , 향후 적색 염료의 정성분석에서 LC-MS분석을 이용한 기초자료로 활용될 것으로 기대한다.
Abstract
A fabric excavated from tombs or passed down is not easy to find its original color as it degrades and discolors by UV and visible rays, oxygen and microorganisms. LC-MS analysis is commonly used for separating and analyzing colors, but color extraction process is complicated and important in dye-qualitative analysis. To extract red colors from a fabric which is dyed with safflower and lac, solvents; hydrogen chloride, pyridine and oxalic acid are used and oxalic acid was the most effective solvent. Meanwhile, dyed samples were put in degradation condition; UV-A for 168 hours and analyzed with LC-MS to find out its colors’chemical changes. As a result, carthamin is detected in TR 13 min and laccaic acid A is detected in TR 10 min. However carthamin is not detected in a degraded fabric dying with safflower, it could be identified as a safflower fabric by the molecular weight of m/z 931. Through this study the most optimal method for red color extraction is found so it is expected to be used as a base line data for red color LC-MS analysis.
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