화협옹주 출토 화장품(갈색 고체) 성분 분석 및 재현연구
Component Analysis and Reproduction of a Brown Solid Cosmetic Excavated from Tomb of Princess Hwahyeop
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초록
본 연구에서는 화협옹주 회곽함에서 출토된 화장품 중 갈색 고체 잔여물이 나타난 화장 품을 중점으로 연구를 진행하였다. 이 화장품은 1752년 부장된 회곽함 안의 청화백자합에서 출토되었다. 국립고궁박물관에서는 유물분석과 문헌조사를 진행하였다. 이를 바탕으로 출토화 장품의 원재료와 제조법을 추정하여 크림 형태의 화장품재현을 시도하였다. 이후 출토품과 유사한 열화 양상을 확인하기 위하여 고온, 자외선, 이산화탄소 조건에서 열화를 시행하였다. 이에 따른 변화와 화장품으로써의 효과를 확인하고자 과학적 분석과 기능성 평가를 진행하였다. 유지류가 높은 비율로 혼합된 재현품에서는 고온열화가 진행됨에 따라 색차값이 약 32 차이가 나타났고, O-H 결합과 C=C 결합에서 화학적 변화가 발생하여 유지류 산화가 발생한 것을 확인할 수 있었다. 또한, 자외선 열화를 통해서는 pH 값이 노출 시간에 따라 산성화되는 것을 확인할수 있었다. 재현품의 기능성 평가로 진행한 차폐율은 현대 화장품의 차폐 기준치보다 낮게 나타 났다.
Abstract
This study focused on analyzing solid brown cosmetic residues that were excavated from the tomb of the Hwahyeop princess. The cosmetics had been buried in 1752 in Cheonghwa Baekja (small porcelain jars) within a Huigwakham (a stone box sealed with lime). A literature search and chemical analyses of the relics were conducted at the National Palace Museum of Korea. Based on the results of these analyses, raw materials and manufacturing methods for reproduction of the cosmetic were selected and then cream-form cosmetics were prepared. Ag ing tests using heat, ultraviolet (UV) radiation, and CO2 were carried out to emulate the deterioration of the excavated cosmetics. Further chemical analyses and functionality tests were performed to evaluate changes from the tests and the effect as a cosmetic. As heat aging progressed, among the reproduced cosmetics, the one which has a high proposition of oil showed a color difference value of 32; the oxidation of oils involved chemical changes in O-H and C=C groups. As the cosmetic cream deteriorated under UV aging, the pH value became acidic. The result of the functional coverage test of the reproduced cosmetic cream was lower than the standard coverage ratio of modern cosmetics.
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